Using EnRoute Software’s “Rapid Texture” on Signage

Are you up against the clock and need to deliver a quality sign on time and within budget? Consider using the Rapid Texture process available with EnRoute Software. Jim Dawson with Synergy Sign and Graphics recently applied this process to some 30 lb. Precision Board HDU to create an entrance sign for The Oaks Apartment Homes. Rapid Texture allowed him to create a 3D texture in 2D time and deliver an amazing looking Precision Board HDU sign to his client.

Precision Board is an excellent signage substrate because it is easy to work with, gentle on the environment and durable.

“We used PBLT-30 because we knew we wanted the edges to be sharp.” Jim added, “With the location of the sign at ground level and at the entryway to an apartment complex, we knew there would be less chance of damage using the higher density Precision Board.”

Dawson used the Rapid Texture process to carve the HDU sign. It allowed him to create 3D textured surfaces in a fraction of the time it takes to create traditional textured surfaces. No bitmaps or 3D surfaces are required. Simply select the contour on which the texture will be based, adjust a few parameters and produce a limitless selection of amazing surfaces using larger tools with bigger offsets.

“The process takes into account the diameter of the bit you’re using and generates 2.5D geometry,” says Dawson. “It’s faster because it’s not generating as many lines as a typical 3d toolpath and is way faster than traditional geometry.”

Jim tells us that a full 3D carve on a 4′ x 8′ sheet of Precision Board normally takes 12-14 hours for the background and another 2-3 for the design elements.

“We carved the background in an hour and 15 minutes, with another 90 minutes to two hours for the letters and leaf.” He added, “Using Rapid Texture we were able to reduce what should have been 30 hours of project time down to about five.”

Jim says that the process has been around for about four or five years, but he hasn’t seen it used for signage a lot. “I’ve seen it used more for architectural purposes, like those lit up hotel walls you see sometimes. This was the first time we used it on a sign.” He added, “there were some budget concerns on the job, so we wanted to make sure it was done on time and within budget without sacrificing quality.”

Dawson has a pro tip for people considering trying out Rapid Texture. “The big thing in Enroute 6 is that you can right-click on the buttons and it will give you tutorial videos, including Rapid Texture. You can get it to do just about anything.”

You can change up your bit size depending on the size of your sign. Jim says that Rapid Texture generates some really great backgrounds on larger signs. “The beauty of it is that you can carve some nice intricate textures that take bigger bits and fewer passes on a larger sign. Similarly, a smaller sign might use smaller bits and more passes.”

Check out this overview of Rapid Texture on the EnRoute YouTube channel. You can also find more information on the EnRoute website.

We think that Jim Dawson and his team do some really excellent work. Synergy Sign & Graphics has a highly experienced staff whose backgrounds include graphic design, marketing, trade-show design, print media, branding, point of purchase design, fulfillment, and more. Check out their website or give them a call at (330) 878-7646 to see about your next project!

Precision Board comes in 8 sheet sizes all the way up to 5′ x 10′ and thicknesses up to 24″, in any increment. We also offer custom bonded blocks. Request a free sample, get a quote or give us a call. We’d love to hear from you!

Monument sign start to finish – part 1

I often get asked to talk about a ‘typical sign’ and how we build them. The answer is most signs we build aren’t typical. But they do follow a pattern. I decided to do a small series of posts on a more ‘normal’ kind of sign – the kind most sign shops might tackle. I’ll cover it from start to finish.

This sign was for a chiropractor. He has just refurbished his building and wanted a new monument sign out front. The building was a historic farm house and looked pretty good. I based the first design on the photograph he provided.

The rock work on the bottom of the sign was to be faux stone so I went to my supplier’s website and downloaded the picture of the rock. I photoshopped this onto the drawing to illustrate how it would look.

My client liked my first design but decided he would rather have the chiropractor’s symbol instead of the building picture. I found the vectors for that logo online.

The second design was approved by my client.

I designed the sign cutting files in EnRoute. The sign face was cut from 1.5″ Precision Board which would be laminated to an additional six layers of 1″ thick Precision Board. My client wanted a chunky sign!

Once the board was cut I fitted the 4″ x 4″ steel tubing into the cutouts and tacked up the frame.

I then finished the welding and added the base plates. I had asked my client to pour a concrete pad six inches below the finished grade where the sign was going. This would allow us to simply lift the sign into position, drill some holes in the concrete, pound in some anchor bolts and tighten the nuts to do a quick and simple install. The stand would also allow me to work on the sign safely in the shop. Note the vertical bar which fit into the middle layer of the sign. This bar is the structure for lifting the sign. I welded a threaded nut to the top into which I twisted an anchor bolt. This was removed when the sign was placed onsite.

I then glued and screwed the layers of the sign together. Note how the one part urethane glue tends to bubble out as it cures. This can be wiped up as it squeezes out but we have a little different approach.

For the next stage we use an air powered die grinder to purposely add texture to the sides and back of the sign. This step also gets rid of that pesky glue. For some reason I timed how long it took me to do the texturing with the die grinder… it was thirteen minutes. I should note that when the good doctor came to approve his sign he walked around the sign admiring it. He ran his hand over the texture on the car and sides of the sign and asked me if I had done that by hand. I nodded. He then said ‘It must have taken a LONG TIME!’ I smiled and told him he had no idea how long it had taken me. He then happily wrote me the check, felling good about the value I had put into the project.

I have no doubt that if I had sanded it perfectly smooth he wouldn’t have mentioned it, simply assuming that machines had done the work. 🙂

The screw holes were filled in with epoxy putty… no sanding required as it blended into all that texture.

I then welded up a pencil rod frame. The wire lath would attach to this framework.

The galvanized lath comes in three weights… we use the medium weight. It is cut to size with the snips and a pair of end cutters is used to twist the rebar tie wire to fasten on the lath. The wire is bent into a hook and then inserted through the lath to hook around the pencil rod. It is then pulled back through the lath and twisted and cut flush with the surface. This job takes practice to get good and fast.

With the wire in place it is time to go to the next step… and I’ll cover that next time. Stay tuned…

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

University of Minnesota Solar Vehicle Project – Eos II

The University of Minnesota Solar Vehicle Project (UMNSVP) recently completed the 2017 Bridgestone World Solar Challenge using a vehicle they designed and created from start to finish. Coastal Enterprises was honored to donate Precision Board HDU to the team for use in fabricating their vehicle. This is their story.

The team spent two years developing Eos II, a solar-electric vehicle prototype. They used blocks of PBLT-18 to create the molds for Eos II, into which carbon fiber sheets were laid to create the body itself.

Once the vehicle was complete, the team headed to Australia to challenge some of the best solar car teams in the world in Australia in the 2017 Bridgestone World Solar Challenge. Competitors’ vehicles charged primarily from the sun as they traversed some of the world’s most challenging landscapes in this 3,000 kilometer race from Darwin to Adelaide.

The team vehicle had to go through “scrutineering” before race day. This is a process where a group of scrutineers review competition cars to ensure they are within technical specs for the race and to also ensure safety and fair play.

Some shots of the car getting ready to take off…and on the road during the race.

We are very proud, Eos II made it ALL 3022 km on its on power, and with almost 0 breakdowns! Thank you to all our sponsors and fans! #BWSC17

— UMNSVP (@umnsvp) October 13, 2017

At the finish line after a long race.

The University of Minnesota Solar Vehicle Project was founded by a group of undergraduate students from the U of M College of Science and Engineering in 1990 and competed in the 1993 GM Sunrayce with its first Solar Car, Aurora I. Since then, The Solar Vehicle Project has remained true to its original foundation as a student administered, designed, and built project that teaches members about engineering and management in a complete product development environment. The team has built thirteen solar vehicles, and is one of the most decorated teams in America.

Eos II, the team’s most recent vehicle, exemplifies the change of direction that the University of Minnesota Solar Vehicle Project has taken in recent years. The team was the first American team to compete in the Cruiser Class at the World Solar Challenge. In addition to speed, this class focuses on practicality and number of people in the car. This poses several new design criteria to give the team room to innovate.

Last year, the Solar Vehicle Project placed fourth in the 2016 Formula Sun Grand Prix and tenth in the 2016 American Solar Challenge, the only cruiser competitor to qualify for either race. Next summer, Eos II will compete in the first ever Cruiser Class at the 2018 American Solar Challenge along the Oregon Trail!

You can see all the updates from fabrication through race day and re-live the team’s racing experience through their Twitter feed and Facebook page or on the official website.

If you are a school interested in a Precision Board donation for your project, please submit a Contact Us form and we’ll get back to you!

Mounting HDU Signs – Did You Know?

Did you know that Precision Board HDU is very effective for creating dimensional signs due to its long exterior life and ease of use? Due to its closed-cell structure, high density urethane must be treated differently than wood. Unlike wood, Precision Board has no grain, cuts easier, sandblasts and routs faster and smoother and carves quicker with less effort and wear on the carver. It also does not absorb moisture, rot or warp. This cell structure, however, requires special consideration when mounting and attaching a sign. Here are some tips and tricks specific to HDU signs.

1. Signs Mounted Directly to the Building Wall

Flat mounting directly to the wall is best accomplished using studs as hangers. The first step is to put the studs into the wall. Concrete nails work well in masonry walls as do galvanized nails into wood walls. After the studs have been installed the sign should be leveled and pushed back onto the studs with enough force to cause a small locating indent at each stud. Be careful not to damage the sign. Using these indents for proper hole location, drill a hole about 2 times larger in diameter than the stud. Depth of hole to be about 1/4″ deeper than attachment. Fill the holes with silicone caulking and slide the sign over the studs. Verify sign is still square, support as necessary, and let cure overnight before disturbing. Leaving the heads on the studs allows the silicone to grip the sign and keep it from being pulled off the wall during high winds. The silicone maintains a strong yet flexible attachment that allows for any wall movement. This type of installation also keeps from having to drill and repair attachment holes through the sign face.

2. Hanging Signs

Do not attach a weight bearing screw or bolt directly into high density urethane. Because urethane has a cellular structure and doesn’t have grain, any weight bearing screw or bolt must have extra support around the threads. Hanging signs are typically hung from eye bolts that are either screwed directly into the sign or that are welded onto the supporting steel framework that is screwed into the periphery of the sign. Attaching eye bolts or weight bearing screws into urethane should be done by drilling a hole about 2 times larger in diameter than the shank of the screw and about 1/4″ deeper than length. Fill this hole with a structural 2 part epoxy, such as EP-76 and insert the eye almost flush with the surface.

Need help keeping the fastener in the center of the hole and at the right height? We’ve got you covered.

No, this is not a Rube Goldberg invention, but it will keep your fastener centered and at the right height while the epoxy dries. Give us a call and we would be happy to send you one of these contraptions to try out for yourself!

Excess epoxy can be smoothed around the eye with any suitable tool dipped in mineral spirits. The epoxy holds the threads of the fastener and greatly increases the holding surface around the inside of the hole. This makes the fastener able to take much more load and eliminates the loosening effects caused by expansion and contraction of the fastener.

3. Strengthening Wide Expanses of High Density Urethane

Because urethane does not have grain, it also has less beam strength than wood. Wide, unsupported, expanses need to take this into consideration. This situation can be addressed in several ways depending on the design of the sign and the unsupported expanses.

Three possibilities are:

1. Add a metal band around the periphery of the sign and attach it as mentioned above.

2. Add a metal extrusion in the shape of a T along the entire bottom edge of the sign. A slot is cut up into the bottom side of the sign that is a 1/4″ wider and deeper than the leg of the T. This slot is then filled with a strong, hard, two part epoxy, like EP-76, and the T inserted into it. The excess epoxy squeezed out of the slot welds the other two legs of the T to the bottom edge of the sign adding rigidity without any visual impact.

3. Bond urethane sheets to a center sheet of exterior grade plywood, Dibond or equivalent. Make sure that the bonding adhesive is waterproof (i.e. PB Bond 240 or PB Fast Set). Call us for bonding tips.

Get in touch to request free samples of Precision Board HDU, get a quote or talk to our technical support team for more information. We really like to hear from you!

Building a mine car

I find it a great deal of fun to design rather complex designs and then figure out a way to fabricate what I have imagined. We are currently working on a good sized theme project called the Cloud Buster. It is a drop tower ride. The thing that separates this ride from all of the others is that the one hundred and twenty-five foot tower ride will be positioned on top of a seventeen foot tall concrete tower. Our job is to theme the concrete structure to fit into the adventure golf course below. I have chronicled the sign for this project previously on this journal. As with all of our projects it started with an idea and a concept drawing.

The concrete tower will be hidden by wrapping a portion of a mountain around it. A mine shaft will go through the centre and guests will be able to golf through this feature.

Construction of the theme work is now well underway. The tunnel through the structure is being fabricated in two sections. This will be lifted into the centre of the golf and then slid into place (no small feat). Then the six outer sections will be craned into place around the tower and bolted together. As with much of our work we will sculpt the rock and timbers from fibreglass reinforced concrete.

A mine car will be situated where guests enter the mine. It will add to the theme and also act as a number marker for the hole. Our client was inspecting the progress on the mine shaft early this week and noticed the work I had done on our rail car which was sitting in the shop parking lot. (Samples work!) He asked for his mine car to have the same kind of detail he saw on our rail truck. I did up a quick concept and he gave it the thumbs up!

I designed the car totally in EnRoute. Everything would be created from steel which meant our MultiCam plasma cutter was going to get quite a workout. The pieces were cut from 1/4″ and 1/8″ plate steel. I allowed three days to design, cut and fabricate the mine car. I did all of the fabrication by myself, save for when I needed some lifting assistance. I managed to do it all in about twenty hours of work.

By quitting time today the fabrication was complete. We’ll sculpt the rocks in the car and the base using fibreglass reinforced concrete. The car will be allowed to rust to make it look old.