Adding the family jewels

We stay busy on the Fox & Hounds project and it’s many, many pieces. One of the signs is almost ready for paint. There were a few details yet to do. After gluing in the support structure I needed to finish the edges and back of the sign. I took a few minutes and used the die grinder to add a subtle texture to the areas. It looks a lot like it was dome with an adze or flat chisel.
The other details would be hand done as well. Back a few weeks ago, when I was doing the workshop in Toronto, I was getting a few supplies (stir sticks and paint cups) and I found these large plastic rubies. They were perfect for the jewels I needed in the crown of this sign. It only cost a couple of dollars for a good sized plastic tube. 
The tops of the crown was sculpted with Abracadabra Sculpting epoxy. I used the die grinder to hollow out the sockets for the plastic jewels. I made them oversized and then partially filled them in with sculpting epoxy, then pushed in the jewels.
I trimmed the sculpting epoxy around the jewels and then fashioned some claws to look authentic. As quick as that this portion of the sign was ready for paint.
Then I used a little more Abracadabra Sculpt to fashion some grape leaves and fastened them to the sign. A couple more seconds with the die grinder introduced a subtle texture to the face of the scrolls.
Stay tuned for the painting process…
-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

Sign easel

They say that necessity is the mother of invention. In my studio that is often true. This past weekend I was doing my best to sort out things and glue up some more signs for the Fox & Hounds Pub project. There were a bunch scattered around various places in the studio in various stages of completion. It was time to come up with a solution to work on a number of projects at once. If at all possible I like to carve and paint my signs as they will be permanently mounted. They are transported in this same manner to minimize wear and tear as well.
Wall space is at a premium in my studio so hanging the signs on a wall to work on them was not an option. Also I needed whatever I created to be easily portable. Most importantly it needed to be STRONG as the signs I make can often weigh in at a hundred pounds of more. Than meant a welded steel frame was a must!
I didn’t over think things but simply brought the steel off the rack and started cutting and welding. I had scrounged some cool steel brackets with castor already mointed. They allowed the whole assembly to be really low. To make things as comfortable as possible I wanted to be able to sit while I paint. This meant I had to build a floor on the stand.
As I worked I came up with more ideas to create a stand that would serve a variety of functions. A removable bar slides through the top tubing to allow one or two signs to hang from it on each side.  A side tray also will be a great place to keep the paint I need handy. A five gallon pail fastened under the shelf holds fresh rags for our glazing. I screwed some trim around the platform to make sure the chair doesn’t roll off the edge.
I also fastened a piece of plywood to the back of the easel to hold a second sign. On both the front and back I screwed a French cleat to hang the signs which sported an opposite hanger. For those not in the know a French cleat is a piece of wood (I use 3/4″ plywood) cut with a 45 degree angle. The weight of the sign alone keeps thing hanging securely.
 -dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

Sign hanger in Precision Board sign

It has been a while since I showed how we fasten eye bolts into our hanging signs. Everyone knows that high density urethane does not hold eye bolts especially well. I’ve heard some sign makers drill out an oversized hole and then uses epoxy to fasten the eye bolts into the sign. This may be strong enough for them but I want to sleep soundly at night and not worry about a possible failure down the road. I figure there may be someone stupid enough to attempt a chin-up on one of my signs. And with my luck they just might be a real good lawyer who weighs in at four hundred pounds.
The solution is to glue some solid steel into the center of the signs we intend to hang. Since we finish the back of our signs it isn’t a whole lot more work. I welded the eye bolts securely to a steel bar. then I laid it on the sign. Once things are all measured up and marked it is a simple matter of using a die grinder to hollow out a void in the back and front halves of the sign. Then it is a matter of spreading the one part Coastal Enterprises glue onto the sign, spritzing it with water and then clamping the two halves together until dry. The extra glue that pools in the grooves will expand and fill in the voids making things good and tight.
-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.