Wagon wheel sign glued

The wagon wheel sign pieces have gathered dust for almost a month as we were so busy with other things. Today the shop was quiet and I finally got the chance to do some assembling. First I had to create a file and cut the center layer to accommodate the steel frame. This frame would be welded up segments of 5/8″ steel rod and a piece of horizontal 1.5″ square tubing. The slots for the 5/8″ tubing would be cut into the material. The square tubing slot was to be cut as part of the offset outline milling.

Here’s the shot of the tool paths ready to be sent to the MultiCam.

Once I had cut the piece from 30 lb Precision Board it was ready to assemble with the rest. I cut and laid the steel into the slots and then tacked it in place using the actual wheel as a jig. The pieces were then removed and welded solid.

I then used PB Bond 240 glue, a one part adhesive made by Coastal Enterprises to fasten the components. I also used plenty of screws to clamp things together and keep them in line. These screws will stay in place.

 
The project had six layers in all which makes for a pretty beefy sign!

Once the glue has set up I’ll start in on the hand work and then we’ll sculpt the prairie dog that will be perched on top. Stay tuned for more progress…

-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

Painting faux granite or concrete

For the big 3D globe logo the client asked to it to look like concrete or granite. There are plenty of ways to do this but the easiest is with paint. The fellow who is making the globe will most likely have the globe hard coated with a bed liner type spray. This will leave a slightly bumpy texture. The piece can then be painted a solid or blended solid color with as many coats as necessary. In our shop we would most likely use a top quality 100% acrylic house paint and brush it on too. For the rocks on a recent project we painted it just this way. Then came the quick magic step.

To get the different colored dots or speckles we use an undercoat gun with only twenty-five pounds of pressure. Higher pressure will give you smaller dots or speckles. Undercoat guns are very inexpensive and available at any auto parts store. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, some with special pots. We buy the cheapest ones with just a pipe, trigger and handle. They are easy to use and easy to clean.

The dark color (brown in this case) was done first. The key is to take it easy and do multiple passes. It is far too easy to put on too many and then you would have to start over. I like to spray from at least there feet away to get an even pattern. Have a helper keep the hose you are dragging around from rubbing across the finished work.

 I stick the intake pipe into my bucket and spray away…. rinse after the first color and then go on to the next color. Masking takes a whole lot longer than the spraying by far.

Once the spraying of the dots is finished you have to wait for the paint to dry before taking off the masking. 
Then we brush on the grout color between the rocks… and as quick as that you are done.

 -dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

Double sign tree complete

The double sign tree took a while to do because the sculpting and painting were fit around the many other projects underway in the shop. Jenessa did the sculpting and painting on the balloon sign and did a great job too! Amazingly, this was only the second sculpture she has done.

Hailey called first dibs on painting the carousel horse. Every color got three coats – all hand painted. That’s a lot of skilled cutting! The horse turned out great!

Once the signs and tree were all painted up they looked pretty cool!
The piece will go outside next week, ready for delivery and installation right after New Years. I can hardly wait to see it on site!
-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

UCSD Human Powered Submarine Takes The Plunge

UCSD ASME students took the plunge with their Human Powered Submarine, “Legasea”, at the 12th International Submarine Races in Bethesda, MD, this past June.

The event was held at the Carderock Division of the Naval Surface Warfare Center in the David Taylor Model Basin, one of the largest ship model basins in the world. The competition consisted of 19 teams competing in a 100 meter race. Each team was required to design and build a one or two-person “Wet” submarine, which has a completely flooded hull and requires the crew members to breath SCUBA from an onboard air supply.

Screen Shot 2013-11-27 at 3.18.28 PM

UCSD students designed and created “Legasea”, a 2-man, propellor-driven, Human Powered Submarine that was designed with SolidWorks and built from scratch by UCSD students. Students relied almost entirely on donations, both material and financial, to bring Legasea to life.

Screen Shot 2013-11-15 at 4.34.55 PM

Coastal Enterprises was proud to donate Precision Board to the UCSD Human Powered Submarine team to use for their mold-making process for the submarine’s body.

Screen Shot 2013-11-27 at 3.30.57 PM

According to Elliot LaBarge, team leader, “We planned to use the 10lb and 15lb. Precision Board we had to make molds we could pull the fiberglass body components of the submarine from. Since the submarine is 21′ long, we decided to make three separate molds and join them together – a task we learned was much easier said than done, due to the large size of the molds.”

Diversified Manufacturing of California was kind enough to lend their CNC capabilities and expertise to the students, producing three perfect molds from Precision Board PBLT-10 and PBLT-15 and spraying them with PLC Polyprimer 903 Black. Once the molds were back in the students hands, they coated them with a Honey Wax mold release compound and PVA (polyvinyl alcohol), and were able to successfully pull three separate body components – a fiberglass nose, center and tail.

Once the body components were ready, the battle wasn’t over yet. An extensive assembly process began followed by as much testing as possible before the race.

“Precision Board worked great because not only is it durable and able to withstand several pulls, but it also has excellent machinability, which really helped us bring the submarine we designed to life”, says Elliott.

1053349_10201586641772104_991396514_o

When it came time to race in June earlier this year, Legasea placed 3rd in the two-person, propellor-driven category. Sub speed was measured by two timing gates halfway through the course, which recorded Legasea’s top speed at 3.42 knots. Unfortunately, a critical failure of the steering control rods rendered them inoperable, resulting in Legasea being unable to complete the final race.

1049133_10201586678693027_1523932357_o

The next International Submarine Races will be held in June of 2015, and Coastal Enterprises will be working closely with the new team leader, Mr. Alistair Twombly, as they redesign Legasea for the next competition.

Check out more info about this project on the official UCSD Human Powered Submarine website: http://asme.ucsd.edu.

Video of the final “pool test” prior to the race:

Slicing and dicing (Creating a 3D logo PART TWO)

With the relief creed and sliced it was time to hollow out each section. It’s not hard but it does have to be done in a particular order. First I created an oval inside each section, making sure the border width took into account the slope of the side of the piece. I did this by selecting the new oval vector and then hitting render what I could see the slopes as they related to the size of the oval. I then selected all of the oval vectors and made them into zero height reliefs. They were then dropped to the bottom of the plate to match the sliced sections.

I then zoomed in on the first relief and opened the MERGE function. We would MERGE LOWEST for this operation.  I followed the command prompts selecting the base relief first. then hit the blue arrow…

Then select the relief you wish to merge… the center oval. Hit the green check mark…  This drops the center portion to zero height.

Then I used the slice tool to cut away the zero height portion of the relief.

The end result is the hollow slice of the big logo.

I repeated these steps on each of the slices except for the top there which were too small to save any material by making them hollow.

Then it was time to cut the reliefs to make them more efficient to nest. I first drew a vector rectangle around the larges one. I drew a vertical line through it and centered it. I moved the relief out of the way.

I then used the jigsaw tool on each half to form new vectors. I deleted the original rectangle and vertical line.

I then made these two rectangles into zero height reliefs. I duplicated them as many times as I needed to slice all of the oval reliefs

Then I positioned the oval relief inside and opened the MERGE command. This time I would use MERGE HIGHEST.

Then I used the slice command to take away the zero height part.

These operations were duplicated for each relief I wanted sliced. The slices are now ready to be nested and then tool path and send off to the router. Keep in mind that this makes HALF of the 3D logo.

I won’t be routing this piece as it was created only to show here but I look forward to seeing what my friend in California does as he recreates these steps for his project there.

-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.