Key piece installed

Today I had my heart set on finishing the outside concrete work. But when we arrived at the site the plasterers had staked out the territory for their work. I wasn’t about to work under them. So we instead worked on the archway we had started last week. I showed how I built the routing file for the keystone with the letter ‘D’.
The concrete work is started at the top, with new concrete gingerly hung from the previously applied mud. It takes practice to lay on a heavy coat of wet concrete without a whole bunch hitting the floor from time to time. It took about two hours to lay on the Mud. It was Hailey’s first time mixing and she did a great job! We had time for some delicious pub food before we began the carving process. We started on the top on the oldest concrete. laying out the lines for the brickwork freehand and then carving in the grooves. Like all the other brickwork we had done it flowed in sweeping lines instead of being deadly straight as is most traditional brickwork. Carving is a slower process than applying the concrete – especially once the chemical reaction kicks. With the warm temperatures of today it was a race against time to get it done. At the end both Hailey and Sarah were helping me to carve in the details. 
I’ll still do a little detail work on the keystone, filling in the seam lines and mounting screw holes and evening out the texture with the die grinder. Then we’ll apply some base coats of paint. But before the glazes go on it is time to work some more sculpting magic. Two or three knarly grape vines will wind their way around the old worn bricks, looking like they have grown there for many decades. These will be sculpted over a welded steel armature to make them plenty strong. Then we’ll paint the vines and glaze and age everything so it looks as old as the pub we are crafting. All of it is working hard to tell our story.
-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

Sign easel

They say that necessity is the mother of invention. In my studio that is often true. This past weekend I was doing my best to sort out things and glue up some more signs for the Fox & Hounds Pub project. There were a bunch scattered around various places in the studio in various stages of completion. It was time to come up with a solution to work on a number of projects at once. If at all possible I like to carve and paint my signs as they will be permanently mounted. They are transported in this same manner to minimize wear and tear as well.
Wall space is at a premium in my studio so hanging the signs on a wall to work on them was not an option. Also I needed whatever I created to be easily portable. Most importantly it needed to be STRONG as the signs I make can often weigh in at a hundred pounds of more. Than meant a welded steel frame was a must!
I didn’t over think things but simply brought the steel off the rack and started cutting and welding. I had scrounged some cool steel brackets with castor already mointed. They allowed the whole assembly to be really low. To make things as comfortable as possible I wanted to be able to sit while I paint. This meant I had to build a floor on the stand.
As I worked I came up with more ideas to create a stand that would serve a variety of functions. A removable bar slides through the top tubing to allow one or two signs to hang from it on each side.  A side tray also will be a great place to keep the paint I need handy. A five gallon pail fastened under the shelf holds fresh rags for our glazing. I screwed some trim around the platform to make sure the chair doesn’t roll off the edge.
I also fastened a piece of plywood to the back of the easel to hold a second sign. On both the front and back I screwed a French cleat to hang the signs which sported an opposite hanger. For those not in the know a French cleat is a piece of wood (I use 3/4″ plywood) cut with a 45 degree angle. The weight of the sign alone keeps thing hanging securely.
 -dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.

Sign hanger in Precision Board sign

It has been a while since I showed how we fasten eye bolts into our hanging signs. Everyone knows that high density urethane does not hold eye bolts especially well. I’ve heard some sign makers drill out an oversized hole and then uses epoxy to fasten the eye bolts into the sign. This may be strong enough for them but I want to sleep soundly at night and not worry about a possible failure down the road. I figure there may be someone stupid enough to attempt a chin-up on one of my signs. And with my luck they just might be a real good lawyer who weighs in at four hundred pounds.
The solution is to glue some solid steel into the center of the signs we intend to hang. Since we finish the back of our signs it isn’t a whole lot more work. I welded the eye bolts securely to a steel bar. then I laid it on the sign. Once things are all measured up and marked it is a simple matter of using a die grinder to hollow out a void in the back and front halves of the sign. Then it is a matter of spreading the one part Coastal Enterprises glue onto the sign, spritzing it with water and then clamping the two halves together until dry. The extra glue that pools in the grooves will expand and fill in the voids making things good and tight.
-dan

Published with permission from precisionboard.blogspot.com. Source.